Stimulation of Cytoglobin Expression and Improvement in ROS-Related Aging Markers in Skin Cells with Tropaeolum majus Extract
Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and mitochondrial dysfunction play a major role in skin aging. Due to Tropaeolum majus’ suggested protective actions against ROS, a link between T. majus extract and increased cytoglobin (CYGB) expression was evaluated for cultured skin cells. Human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes were treated with 0.5% v/v T. majus extract and the effect of this treatment on the expression of CYGB and on a range of cellular markers of aging were evaluated. In fibroblasts, the treatment with the extract was associated with an increase in CYGB levels. It also decreased ROS concentrations, improved the function of mitochondria, and stimulated the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Moreover, it downregulated a set of genes controlling the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes. T. majus extract activates oxygen transport within natural killer cells and thus enhances their activity, suggesting a potential senolytic effect. This extract seemed to exert a protective effect on various aging pathways such as ROS production, mitochondrial dysfunction, and collagen homeostasis, playing a promising role against skin aging.
Open access paper: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/5/230
Brief AI Summary:
Here’s a summary of the paper “Stimulation of Cytoglobin Expression and Improvement in ROS-Related Aging Markers in Skin Cells with Tropaeolum majus Extract” (Cosmetics 2025) and details on the dosing/frequency and effect sizes they observed.
Summary
The study investigates how an extract of Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium) enriched in arabinogalactans (prepared by the company SILAB) acts on skin-cells (human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes) in vitro with respect to aging-related pathways. MDPI
Key points:
- Aging of skin is associated with increased reactive oxygen species (ROS), mitochondrial dysfunction, and breakdown of extracellular matrix (ECM: collagen & elastin) in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. MDPI+2MDPI+2
- The protein cytoglobin (CYGB) is up-regulated by the extract, and CYGB is proposed to help reduce ROS, support oxygen delivery and protect mitochondria. MDPI
- The extract treatment reduced ROS levels (both cytosolic and mitochondrial), improved mitochondrial respiration and ATP production, increased cell proliferation, and significantly boosted collagen and elastin synthesis in fibroblasts. In keratinocytes, it also modulated gene expression—down-regulating genes involved in terminal differentiation/cornified envelope formation. MDPI
- They also evaluated immune cells (NK cells) under hypoxic conditions: the extract restored NK cell activity (which declines under hypoxia) by 84 %. MDPI
- The authors conclude that T. majus extract may help protect against skin aging by reducing ROS, improving mitochondrial function, boosting ECM synthesis and promoting more regenerative keratinocyte states. MDPI
Dosing/Frequency
Because this is an in vitro (cell culture) study, “dosing” refers to concentration in the culture medium; “frequency” is how often the treatment was applied. (No clinical human dosing was used.)
Source:
T. majus extract enriched in arabinogalactanes was prepared by Silab (Silab, Saint-Viance, France), as described in this patent (FR2965483).
Availability:
Tropaeolum majus Extract / Nasturtium Extract is widely available from resellers on the internet if people want to try this:
ChatGPT5 Prompt:
Please identify and list 20 good value, higher volume (2 ounces or more) Nasturtium Extract serums or tinctures, identifying the percent nasturtium extract of each product, and with a priority on the lowest cost per 100ML products
CGPT5 Response:
Here’s a curated list of 20 higher-volume (≥2 oz / ~60 ml) nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) extract tinctures/serums, prioritized toward lowest cost per 100 ml. When makers specify strength, I list the declared extract ratio or percent; if they don’t disclose it, I note “not disclosed.” Prices and sizes are straight from the product pages.
Quick read: the absolute value standouts are Helios Holland 100 ml (€5.95) and Schrocky Mountain Farm 4.2 oz ($15.83 ≈ $12.8/100 ml). Several Czech brands (Topvet / Green Idea / Dr. Max) also run ~159–220 CZK per 100 ml (very good).
Full response:
CGPT Prompt:
Please provide an analysis and summary of this patent from Silab: patent FR2965483
Response:
Here’s a crisp, practical read-out of FR2965483 (SILAB) — “Cosmetic use of a Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium) extract as an active for promoting oxygenation of skin tissue.”
What the patent claims (in plain English)
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Purpose / use-claim: Using a nasturtium extract as a cosmetic active to improve skin oxygenation. The mechanism emphasized is (a) restoring hypoxic stress response (via HIF-1α induction) and/or (b) facilitating intracellular oxygen diffusion (via upregulating cytoglobin). Google Patents
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Composition range: Topical compositions containing the active at 0.01–20 wt% of the finished product. Patent Images
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Nature of the active: An extract enriched in arabinogalactans (low DP 2–6), and depleted in polyphenols (< 0.2% of dry matter). The extract is preferably obtained by aqueous extraction of aerial parts. Typical analytics: dry matter 10–55 g/L; total sugars 2–16 g/L (≈14–46% of dry matter); uronic acids 3–5% of dry matter. Google Patents
How they make it (extraction outline)
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Process (example):
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Solubilize powder of aerial parts of T. majus in water (e.g., 100 g/kg);
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Separate soluble/insoluble phases;
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Remove polyphenols by adsorption to get < 0.2% polyphenols;
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Filter, optionally decolorize/deodorize, then sterile filtration. Google Patents+1
Evidence provided in the patent
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In vitro (aging fibroblasts): Fractions tested at 0.25% under hypoxia show induction of HIF-1α (restored hypoxic response) and support for cytoglobin synthesis (oxygen trafficking). The active fraction is the neutral carbohydrate (arabinogalactan-rich) fraction. Patent Images
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In vivo (cosmetic study): 28-day, twice-daily facial application of an emulsion with 3% nasturtium extract (vs placebo). The a* colorimetric parameter (redness/rosiness linked to oxygenation) increased by +9.5% versus placebo, interpreted as improved oxygenation/complexion radiance.
Practical formulation guidance inferred from the text
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Dosage in finished products: 0.01–20% (the human in-vivo example used 3% in an emulsion, bid x 28 days).
Sources
Short answer: I couldn’t find any commercially sold, consumer-facing products that publicly state their formula is an emulsion containing exactly 3% nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) extract. Brands virtually never disclose the exact % of a single botanical—SILAB’s OXYGESKIN® has a recommended use level of 1–3% in finished formulas, but the specific % used by any brand is typically undisclosed. (SILAB)
That said, here are products that explicitly claim to use OXYGESKIN® / Tropaeolum majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (so they’re plausible candidates to be in the 1–3% window), with current pricing and size. I’m flagging the concentration as “% not disclosed” because none of these pages publish an exact percentage:
| Product |
Format |
Declared % of nasturtium/OXYGESKIN |
Size |
Price |
Notes / Source |
| G.M. Collin Puractive+ Cream
|
Emulsion cream |
Not disclosed |
1.7 oz (50 ml) |
$68 |
Product page lists Oxygeskin® (Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) among key ingredients. ([G.M. COLLIN® Skincare |
| Beauty Pie Superdrops Brightening Niacinamide
|
Serum (not an emulsion) |
Not disclosed |
30 ml |
£15 (member price) |
Third-party review cites “10% niacinamide + Oxygeskin”; Beauty Pie doesn’t publish the % of Oxygeskin. (The Sun) |
| CARELIKA Blue Light Protection Spray (with OXYGESKIN®) |
Mist/spray (not an emulsion) |
Not disclosed |
50 ml |
Price varies by distributor |
Several reseller pages say the spray “contains OXYGESKIN®”; no usage % is shown. (Carelika Professional Skin Care USA) |
| Institut’ DERMed Bio-Derm Oxygen (pro facial kit) |
Pro treatment kit (contains multiple products) |
Not disclosed |
Kit (multiple items) |
$99 (launch price) |
Brand states this professional facial incorporates OXYGESKIN®; individual product % not given. (Institut Dermed) |
Note: $9 serum with OXYGESKIN®:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/167609498580?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=167609498580&targetid=2435444093014&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031959&poi=&campaignid=22900655222&mkgroupid=184692222660&rlsatarget=pla-2435444093014&abcId=10415523&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=22900655222&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh9f2OfK8JJ6bnNpaxjQkdyyV&gclid=CjwKCAjwgeLHBhBuEiwAL5gNER0vvza51dVW-UJoj150aT5LM0SxRIWjEfzxnqtBN3z6nLoOSxPIQxoC0AwQAvD_BwE